How To Choose a Fishing Rod

Learning how to choose a good quality fishing rod along with the proper reel is the foundation for success and fun when you go saltwater fishing.

Like most things in life, you typically get what you pay for. However, like most things in life, there are overpriced products, and then there are cheap “deals” that are not deals.

One of the things to consider is that if you are like most anglers, you only have a certain number of days out of the year that you can go fishing.

You want to make sure that your gear will not break down on you and leave you stranded, especially if you have just spent a lot of money to get to your destination.

The two main components for fishing are the rod and the reel.  While a good reel like a Penn Battle II  or a Shimano Stradic FK is very important, the rod allows you to get your lure or bait to your target.

So, if you ask yourself what you should expect to spend on a good rod, the answer can range from $39.99 for something like an Ugly Stik GX2 up to several hundred dollars.

In most cases, I do not think it is worth spending more than $200-$300 for a really good rod unless you fish regularly (3+ times a month) or you suffer from having an abundance of cash lying around.

If you are the type of person who takes very good care of your things, then consider spending a bit more, as a rod that is well cared for should last you 20+ years or more.

Parts of the Fishing Rod

Rod Blank

The rod blank is the main component of the rod that everything else is attached to, so it is the foundation of your rod.  Rod blanks can be made from various materials today, and the most common are fiberglass and graphite or a combination of the two.

Fiberglass has been used to produce rods since the early 1950s, and it is still used to build some great rods today.  Most fiberglass rods will have medium to slow action.

The first graphite rod was introduced to the market by Fenwick in 1974.  Graphite is a very common material today, and it comes in different modules, which refer to its stiffness.

The higher the modulus, the stiffer the rod will be by weight, meaning that you can use less material to achieve the stiffness and thus produce a lighter-weight rod.

When looking at graphite rods, you will most likely see identifiers such as IM6, IM7, and IM8, which are the trade numbers used by Hexcel Corp. to identify their fibers, which have a name of their own, Hercules.

Butt

The butt of the rod is the bottom component and serves several purposes, depending on the type of rod.  The primary purpose is to protect and finish the end of the rod blank.

On some rods, you will have a larger butt that is sometimes referred to as a fighting butt.  The larger fighting butt can be placed against your belly when fighting a larger fish to give you more leverage.

Handle

The handle can be made of a variety of materials.  The less expensive rods typically have a handle made of synthetic material like EVA.

Personally, I prefer a cork handle as it is lightweight and provides a good grip even when it is wet.  Cork also can transmit the feel of a fish striking better than synthetics.

Like anything else, Cork has different grades, and you will typically find a high-quality cork grip on a higher-end rod. Cheap cork does tend to chip out.

Reel Seat

The reel seat holds the reel to the rod.  A good quality reel seat will be cut out so that the reel touches the rod blank, allowing for better transmission of the feel of the fish striking.

Guides

Most guides you find today are made of metal with a ceramic insert, and the most common are Hardloy, Hialoy, and Aluminum Oxide.  The better quality rods use stainless steel, such as the Ugly Stik GX2 guide, a single piece that appears more durable.

The very high-end guides are made of titanium wire, which can spring back, much like some modern eyeglasses.

Guides are very important, as a high-quality guide made of Silicon carbide, or SiC, offers a smooth surface with very little friction, allowing for a longer cast.

Another material you will find is Alconite, a much cheaper, high-quality alternative to SiC.

Note:  Never place your hook onto a guide, as it will mar it, which can lead to your line being weakened.

Hook Keeper

As the name states, the hook keeper is the place for your hook when you leave a lure or bait hook attached to the rod.

Tip

The rod tip is at the top of the rod blank, the narrowest part of the rod and the most susceptible to being broken or damaged, especially if it is graphite.

The tip has two dimensions: the tube size and the ring size.  The tube size is the inside of the tube where the top of the rod blank is inserted. The ring size refers to the size of the ring (guide) through which the fishing line passes.

It is common for larger rods to have a larger ring size.

The next thing you must consider when selecting a rod is what fish species you will be targeting.   The size and species of fish will play into the rod’s length, power, weight, action, and material.

Length

You need to consider several things when you think about rod length.  The first is where you will be fishing and for what type of fish.

If you are going after medium-sized inshore fish in the 1-25 lbs range, you will want something in a single piece in the 6′-7.5′ range.  I prefer the single-piece rods as they are more durable, and a 7′ rod still fits in most vehicles without a problem.

If you are going to be traveling to your destination by plane, you will have to go with a two-piece.

If you are boat fishing for larger species, such as Grouper, you will need a shorter and stronger rod that can handle several hundred pounds like this big fellow.

When surf casting, you will need to look at an even longer rod, typically in the 11-13 foot range and in moderate to heavy action, that has the leverage to launch the larger baits you will be using.

Just because a surf rod is longer does not necessarily mean it will be better.  A quality rod in the 11-13′ range will always outperform a cheap, longer rod.

Rod Power

The rod’s power is about how much pressure it takes to bend the rod.  The heavier the rod, the more pressure or weight it takes to bend it.  Depending on the manufacturer, you will have different ratings or categories of power.

The typical categories are:

• light
• light/medium
• medium
• medium/heavy
• heavy

Another way some manufacturers rate the rods is with a number system, typically 1-5, where one is light and five is heavy.

Rod Action

The rod action is defined by how easily and far from the tip the rod will bend or flex when you have a fish on the line.  The action of a rod tends to be pretty close across most rod manufacturers; however, the terms they use to describe the action vary.

Some manufacturers use:

• light
• medium
• medium/heavy
• heavy similar

While others will use the terms:

• slow
• moderate
• fast
• extra fast

So, what does all of this mean to you?  The action is a rating describing the bend in the rod under constant pressure.

The faster the action, the quicker the rod stops bending and transfers the power to the blank (main part) of the rod.

A very fast or heavy rod will only bend the first 3-4 inches of the tip, while a slow or light rod will bend nearly a third of the way down the rod blank.

Slow Action

Slow-action rods bend almost down and have become much less popular in today’s fishing applications due to many technological advances in rod design.

Slow-action rods are generally better for jerk and crank baits, which are lighter and easier to cast.  The slow action is also better at keeping the fish hooked, as it is more flexible.

Medium Action

The medium action rod provides more casting capability in exchange for less sensitivity.

A medium-action rod is geared towards applications such as crankbaits, as the lighter action on the hook set helps to keep the hook in the fish’s mouth.

Heavy Action

Heavy or Fast Action rods are a great choice when you need an all-around rod that will cover most fishing applications.

The balance of the rod flexibility and sensitivity makes for a rod that will allow you to cast most lures and baits with a good degree of accuracy.

If you will be casting heavier lures or bait, this action is for you.

In Conclusion

What is important is to consider your budget, how long and how often you expect to fish, and for what size.

For most anglers wanting an all-around rod, I recommend a single-piece 7′ rod in medium power and medium/heavy action.

If you can try several rods from friends before purchasing your own, then that is what I recommend doing. This way, you can experience how the rod feels in your hands and what it feels like when you have a fish on the line.

If you like the fight, I recommend using slightly lighter gear, maybe a medium power with a medium action.

Remember that an expensive rod will not necessarily make you a better fisherman; however, it is a tool, and most craftsmen will perform at a higher level with a better tool.

A cheap rod and reel will limit your ability to feel the bite and fight the fish.  If you think you will spend a fair amount of time fishing and taking care of things you buy, I would seriously consider allocating between $150 and $200 for a quality rod and reel.